There is something reminiscent of McQueen’s glory years in the way Adam Rose, creative director and CEO of the Berlin Alternative Fashion Week, has his audience traipsing to warehouse-like interiors with penetrating basslines – a real underground club night aesthetic. But it is also just very Berlin. The elegance of the fashion world is replaced by a certain grit, truer to real life, more attainable for the audience.
At the REUSE:it show on Friday night there is tons of energy, from audience and designers alike. The emphasis is on sustainability, and designers who emulate this in their work. Collections are full of bright colours, as well as silvers and golds – in some cases from reused sweet wrappers, like the mesmerising Re-Cycle Style – make up is loud and models run, jump and dance across the runway. Sado Opera even treat us to a dynamic performance, whilst tHERAPY + recycle & exorcise display scantily clad models barely covered by a chain mail like material.
Through the speakers we are serenaded by a woman singing in French, and the smoke machine continues to puff away
One of the few exceptions to this general mood is (despite the name) Super Fashion Rainbow Camp. Theirs is one of the gentler presentations, as models slowly traipse the stage to a classical soundtrack. Through the speakers we are serenaded by a woman singing in French, and the smoke machine continues to puff away, so that there is a constant stream enveloping the models from the ankles down to portray a soft mist. Overall the effect is quite ethereal, this ambiance continued by the clothes themselves; silky shirts flow gently, toying with classic silhouettes by seeming to drape over bodies. The clothes are elegant, elongating the torso despite lacking in defined shape. Soft hues make up the palette – blues and greys, and I particularly love a shoulderless shirt which gently hugs a slender model’s upper body. The collection feels free-spirited, fitting the theme of the overall event.
Her clothes are made of reused materials which have been folded to create completely new, and quite strikingly beautiful, garments
Designer Jule Waibel encompasses the ideals of the REUSE:it shows, as her clothes are made of reused materials which have been folded to create completely new, and quite strikingly beautiful, garments. Futuristic in both their style and inspiration (sustainability!) the stars of her show are definitely the paper dresses, made entirely from recycled U-Bahn tickets. They are wide in form with cinched waists, and it is incredible to see how much shape she is able to create simply by folding. Chiffon dresses follow, also folded, ebbing and flowing as the models prance the runway. Perfectly paired with a pair of black Adidas Stan Smiths – suddenly I am dreaming of summer style!
Review by Eva Klein